Send Snapshots to the Desktop

Your desktop is your camera phone's photo lab. But before you can do any processing, you need to get your pictures into the computer.

 

Most camera phones store digital-photo files in their internal memory. This internal memory is generally limited to two to four megabytes. Some of this memory is reserved by the phone's operating system, and some is used for applications (including games) you install on the phone.

 

This means that your images share internal storage space with telephone numbers, addresses, calendar events, user-installed applications, and other system information. With my phone, I've found that this configuration has left me with enough space for only about 15 to 20 photo files. This is not an issue, though, on camera phones that support the use of Multi-Media Cards (MMCs) or Secure Digital (SD) cards for additional data storage.

 

File-Transfer Options

At some point, you will want to copy the photo files from the camera phone to your computer or personal digital assistant (PDA) for safekeeping. This section shows five possible ways to achieve this task successfully. Note that most camera phones work with only a subset of these methods. Figure illustrates how these file-transfer options work with your phone, PDA, and computer.

                                     

                         File-transfer options from camera phone to computer and PDA

 

Email photo files yourself.

Check to see whether your mobile-phone service plan includes its own email account.

The feature you're looking for might be called something like Multimedia Mail or

Multimedia Send on the phone. After you send an email message (containing the JPEG image file) from your phone, the email server will store the message until you retrieve it on your personal computer. You should learn the file sizes of photos created by your camera and any storage limitations your email account might have. Also pay attention to any extra charges that might apply when you use this service. Be sure to test this

 

 

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Send Snapshots to the Desktop

Your desktop is your camera phone's photo lab. But before you can do any processing, you need to get your pictures into the computer.

 

Most camera phones store digital-photo files in their internal memory. This internal memory is generally limited to two to four megabytes. Some of this memory is reserved by the phone's operating system, and some is used for applications (including games) you install on the phone.

 

This means that your images share internal storage space with telephone numbers, addresses, calendar events, user-installed applications, and other system information. With my phone, I've found that this configuration has left me with enough space for only about 15 to 20 photo files. This is not an issue, though, on camera phones that support the use of Multi-Media Cards (MMCs) or Secure Digital (SD) cards for additional data storage.

 

File-Transfer Options

At some point, you will want to copy the photo files from the camera phone to your computer or personal digital assistant (PDA) for safekeeping. This section shows five possible ways to achieve this task successfully. Note that most camera phones work with only a subset of these methods. Figure illustrates how these file-transfer options work with your phone, PDA, and computer.

                                     

                         File-transfer options from camera phone to computer and PDA

 

Email photo files yourself.

Check to see whether your mobile-phone service plan includes its own email account.

The feature you're looking for might be called something like Multimedia Mail or

Multimedia Send on the phone. After you send an email message (containing the JPEG image file) from your phone, the email server will store the message until you retrieve it on your personal computer. You should learn the file sizes of photos created by your camera and any storage limitations your email account might have. Also pay attention to any extra charges that might apply when you use this service. Be sure to test this

 

 

Source: O'Reilley | Portfolio Website |  Online Portfolio

 

Send Snapshots to the Desktop

Your desktop is your camera phone's photo lab. But before you can do any processing, you need to get your pictures into the computer.

 

Most camera phones store digital-photo files in their internal memory. This internal memory is generally limited to two to four megabytes. Some of this memory is reserved by the phone's operating system, and some is used for applications (including games) you install on the phone.

 

This means that your images share internal storage space with telephone numbers, addresses, calendar events, user-installed applications, and other system information. With my phone, I've found that this configuration has left me with enough space for only about 15 to 20 photo files. This is not an issue, though, on camera phones that support the use of Multi-Media Cards (MMCs) or Secure Digital (SD) cards for additional data storage.

 

File-Transfer Options

At some point, you will want to copy the photo files from the camera phone to your computer or personal digital assistant (PDA) for safekeeping. This section shows five possible ways to achieve this task successfully. Note that most camera phones work with only a subset of these methods. Figure illustrates how these file-transfer options work with your phone, PDA, and computer.

                                      

                         File-transfer options from camera phone to computer and PDA

 

Email photo files yourself.

Check to see whether your mobile-phone service plan includes its own email account.

The feature you're looking for might be called something like Multimedia Mail or

Multimedia Send on the phone. After you send an email message (containing the JPEG image file) from your phone, the email server will store the message until you retrieve it on your personal computer. You should learn the file sizes of photos created by your camera and any storage limitations your email account might have. Also pay attention to any extra charges that might apply when you use this service. Be sure to test this

 

 

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Transfer Images via Email

Wireless photo transfer is one of the great advantages of camera phones. These tips will have you filling up your friends' phone mailboxes in short order.

 

Email might be the simplest way to get a photograph from your phone to somewhere else. It doesn't require a special cable, computer peripheral, or additional software. Only a few camera phones (mostly in the Smartphone category) allow additional file storage using MMC or SD cards. This means that if your phone has limited storage space or if you have installed a number of aftermarket applications that have their own data requirements, you'll fill up the phone's internal storage with just a few photos. Emailing your photo might be the only way to free up storage space on your phone if you do not have ready access to a desktop, notebook, or PDA to which you can offload the phone's photo files.

 

To make sure you do not incur any unexpected extra cost, you should check your mobile phone's service plan before transferring photos via email. Most mobile-phone service providers have a set of email and data services to choose from. If you plan on emailing photo files frequently from your camera phone, I recommend choosing an unlimited email or data plan.

 

Generally, these plans are reasonably priced.

 

After you confirm that you can send photo files using email on your camera phone, the next step is to add email addresses to your phone's contacts list. You can create and edit contacts by using the phone's keypad. However, you might find it faster and easier to create the contact entries on your notebook or desktop PC and then synchronize the list with your camera phone.

 

Most camera phones come bundled with software to synchronize data with a Microsoft Windows system. If you use Mac OS X, check whether Apple isync (

http://www.apple.com/isync/) will allow you to synchronize your computer's address book with your camera phone. Linux users should investigate wammu -gammu GUI (Http://www.cihar.com/gammu/wammu/) to see if it meets their needs.

Once you have laid the groundwork, sending a photo in email from a camera phone is easy.

On my Nokia 3650, I start by choosing Send via Multimedia, as shown in Figure 7-7.

Multimedia Messaging Service (MMS) is an extension of the text-only Short Messaging Service (SMS), which allows text, sound, images, and video messages to be sent between MMS-capable phones. However, these messages can also be sent through conventional email if the operator of the mobile phone provides this service.

 

                                         

                                Sending a photo using Multimedia Messaging

The email address in Figure was selected from my phone's contacts list. As mentioned earlier, this process is much more fun if you have the addresses of friends and family in the phone. The text name associated with the email address is shown in the. To: field. The subject is out of view in this screen.

 

                                           Image ready to send

 

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Live with a Less-Than-Perfect Camera

Ansell Adams might not have used a camera phone to photograph "Moonrise, Hernandez," but I bet he would have loved to have one around when he was hanging out with Edward Weston.

 

The value of a photograph taken with a camera phone does not lie in its photographic quality.

The value lies in the sense of immediacy and the knowledge that you are able to capture? And, indeed, share? A moment in time that would have been lost had your camera phone not been with you.

Most of us who are not professional photographers do not carry cameras with us all the time.

 

Many of us, however, take our mobile phones everywhere we go. We take photographs for their personal value. Photographs can let us relive a special moment time again and again.

So, for many of us, the choice between nonexistent six-megapixel images (because the digital SLR is home, safe and sound, in the file cabinet) and a small, slightly blurry picture from the camera phone is clear: pull out the camera phone! For example, I can show you the rainbow in Figure only because I had a camera phone with me to capture it.                                            

                                                         

                                                           Camera-phone picture of a rainbow

 How Photos from Camera Phones Are Different

Anyone who has played with taking pictures on a camera phone knows that it's not the same as regular digital photography, at least not yet. We're already seeing impressive improvements in camera-phone technology in Japan, and those improvements will soon spread across the globe. Until then, here are some of the main reasons why photographs taken with camera phones don't look quite as good as those taken with regular digital cameras.

 

Pixel resolution

 

Many camera phones still take pictures at 640 480 pixel resolution (0.33 megapixels).

In printing terms, these dimensions translate to output that is 3" 4", before cropping.

We're starting to see more camera phones with higher megapixel resolution, so if making prints is important to you, look for that specification in your next phone.

 

Optical properties of the lens

 

The camera lens used in camera phones cannot be expected to compete with hobbyist, semiprofessional or professional camera lenses. Moreover, if you look at a camera phone's lens, you will notice that it has some kind of plastic or other clear material to protect the lens. Although this protective covering generally appears transparent to your eye, it probably does not allow the perfect, unimpeded transmission of light through it to the camera lens. It is also susceptible to tiny scratches (or worse) that might contribute to image blurring and chromatic (i.e., color) aberration.

 

Image sensor properties

 

Instead of film, digital cameras have an image sensor. As you might imagine, the image sensors in camera phones generally do not have the same image-capturing quality found in conventional digital cameras, especially compared to new digital image-processing technologies such as Canon's Digit, Kyocera's RTUNE, and Olympus'

Tropics, which are all sophisticated and greatly enhance signal

              

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Hand-Color with the History Brush

 Combining the richness of color and the mood of B&W photography, you can create eye-catching artistic effects. And with the History Brush in Photoshop CS, it's easy.

 

I always shoot my original images in color, even if the sole purpose of the assignment is to deliver B&W prints. Why? Because when you shoot in high-resolution color, you have a full complement of options available later in Photoshop. For example, you can always convert a copy of the photo to B&W, keeping the color original intact. Or, as in this hack, you can mix the two formats.

 

For this assignment, I want the image to have the artistic feel of B&W photography. I'm also interested in playing with hand-coloring to produce an unusual effect. By shooting the original photo in full color, I can use a little Photoshop magic to combine these looks.

For my source image, I selected a night picture of the Port of San Francisco, as shown in Figure.

 

 The clock tower dominates the foreground, and you can see the Bay Bridge off in the distance. Even though I like this photo in full color, I see some creative possibilities that might emerge by playing with it a bit.

    

                       

                     Full-color night shot of the Port of San Francisco

 

What I have in mind here is to desaturate the entire image, essentially converting it to a B&W photo. I chose to desaturate it instead of converting it to grayscale, because that way, I can retain all the RGB information. That information will provide me access to those channels later, when I'll be ready to return some color to the picture.

 

First, you convert the image to B&W by applying Image Adjustments Desaturated. In effect, you now have a B&W photo. Make whatever level adjustments you like to make the tones pleasing to your eye. Now, you're ready to start hand-coloring.

 

Choose History from the Window drop-down menu. This opens the History palette, which enables you to keep track of what's going on. Next, from the Tools palette, select the 

History Brush, as shown in Figure.

                           

          Use the History Brush to restore color to specific areas of the picture

 

 

 

 

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Fix Flash Falloff

Built-in flashes on digital point and shoots sure are handy? that is, up to about eight feet. Here's how to brighten those dark areas when your flash runs out of juice before your subject does.

 

During the holidays and other social events, the setting is usually larger than our little flashes can cover. So, the people in the front of the scene get overexposed and the folks in the back fade to black. Thanks to a nifty tool in Photoshop called an overlay mask, you can correct this uneven treatment of your guests.

 

You can use Photoshop Elements or CS for this hack. I'll work in

Elements this time around, just to show how powerful this entry-level image editor really is.

 

After opening your picture, open the Layers floating palette, found in the Window drop-down menu. Select Layer New Layer. Choose Overlay from the Mode pop-up menu and set the opacity to 50%, as shown in Figure.

 

                                      

                                  Adding an Overlay layer

Check your Tools palette to ensure that your foreground color is white and the background black. Then, click on the Gradient tool, as shown in Figure.

 

                                         

                                    Choose the Gradient tool from the Tools palette

 

Use your Gradient tool to draw a black-and-white linear (rather than, say, radial) gradient straight up the image, from the brighter guys to the darker ones. Try to follow the flash falloff itself. You can begin your gradient off the image or in the

 

 

   

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Fix Flash Falloff

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: D K SINGHANIA <singhania19492@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, May 25, 2011 at 1:01 PM
Subject: Fix Flash Falloff
To: photographywebsite@posterous.com, D k Sir <dharmendra19492@gmail.com>

Built-in flashes on digital point and shoots sure are handy? that is, up to about eight feet. Here's how to brighten those dark areas when your flash runs out of juice before your subject does.

 

During the holidays and other social events, the setting is usually larger than our little flashes can cover. So, the people in the front of the scene get overexposed and the folks in the back fade to black. Thanks to a nifty tool in Photoshop called an overlay mask, you can correct this uneven treatment of your guests.

 

You can use Photoshop Elements or CS for this hack. I'll work in

Elements this time around, just to show how powerful this entry-level image editor really is.

 

After opening your picture, open the Layers floating palette, found in the Window drop-down menu. Select Layer New Layer. Choose Overlay from the Mode pop-up menu and set the opacity to 50%, as shown in Figure.

                                  Adding an Overlay layer

Check your Tools palette to ensure that your foreground color is white and the background black. Then, click on the Gradient tool, as shown in Figure.

                                    Choose the Gradient tool from the Tools palette

 

Use your Gradient tool to draw a black-and-white linear (rather than, say, radial) gradient straight up the image, from the brighter guys to the darker ones. Try to follow the flash falloff itself. You can begin your gradient off the image or in the

 

 

   

Source: O'Reilley | Portfolio Website |Online Portfolio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fix Flash Falloff

Built-in flashes on digital point and shoots sure are handy? that is, up to about eight feet. Here's how to brighten those dark areas when your flash runs out of juice before your subject does.

 

During the holidays and other social events, the setting is usually larger than our little flashes can cover. So, the people in the front of the scene get overexposed and the folks in the back fade to black. Thanks to a nifty tool in Photoshop called an overlay mask, you can correct this uneven treatment of your guests.

 

You can use Photoshop Elements or CS for this hack. I'll work in

Elements this time around, just to show how powerful this entry-level image editor really is.

 

After opening your picture, open the Layers floating palette, found in the Window drop-down menu. Select Layer New Layer. Choose Overlay from the Mode pop-up menu and set the opacity to 50%, as shown in Figure.

                                  Adding an Overlay layer

Check your Tools palette to ensure that your foreground color is white and the background black. Then, click on the Gradient tool, as shown in Figure.

                                    Choose the Gradient tool from the Tools palette

 

Use your Gradient tool to draw a black-and-white linear (rather than, say, radial) gradient straight up the image, from the brighter guys to the darker ones. Try to follow the flash falloff itself. You can begin your gradient off the image or in the

 

 

   

Source: O'Reilley | Portfolio Website |Online Portfolio

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soften Facial Lines

You've taken great care to capture your subjects in the best light. But sometimes, artistic lighting accentuates facial lines. Here's how to soften them for a more natural look.

 

I know from experience that the best light for photographing people comes from the front.

discussed this technique in detail, and it's a lighting rule I follow most of the time? but not always.

 

Sometimes, I like the effect of illuminating from the side. Certain models have a personality that is better expressed by more dynamic lighting. The downside is that illumination from a side angle enhances texture. This byproduct doesn't thrill models when facial lines that weren't there before now appear.

 

So, how do I get my dynamic lighting and satisfy the model too? I could spend more time and money on equipment to produce just the right effect. But I'm cheap and like to work quickly. So I go with my instincts while shooting and use a little Photoshop magic afterward.

 

For example, I used only two lights to shoot the portrait in Figure one from the front and a hair light from the top. We worked quickly and finished the entire session in less than 45 minutes. By shooting at this pace, the model stayed fresh and brought plenty of energy to the camera. If I had spent a lot of time fiddling with the equipment, I might have lost her interest.

                                                          

I really like this shot, but the side lighting does the model injustice by accentuating facial lines. She doesn't look like that in real life. Normally, you don't see the smile lines on both sides of her mouth, but my lighting has created that effect.

 

Fortunately, this is an easy fix in Photoshop CS. I can use the Healing Brush to eliminate the lines and then apply the Fade control to make my fix look natural. Here's how it works:

 

Open the image in Photoshop CS and use the Zoom control to magnify it to 100%.

 

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Match Resolution to Output

Image resolution remains one of the great mysteries to hobbyist photographers; there's one setting for computer viewing and another for print output. Here's how it works.

 

I can't resist starting this chapter with an anecdote. Usually, I wouldn't, but I feel that this story sets the tone for the entire chapter.

 

About a year ago, after teaching a two-hour digital photography seminar, I was fielding questions from attendees while packing up my equipment. One gentleman approached me and said, "I have just one question for you. How do I change the resolution of my pictures without changing their dimensions? I know there's one little thing I need to do, but for the life of me, I can't remember what it is."

 

This guy had patiently sat through an entire seminar, probably about stuff he already knew, just so he could ask this question afterward.

I reopened my laptop, launched Photoshop, and showed him the magic box that he needed to uncheck. His eyes lit up, he grabbed my right hand, and he shook it vigorously. "Thank you, thank you!" he exclaimed and ran out the door. Most likely, he headed directly home and went to work.

 

For me, that experience sums up Photoshop for digital photographers. You know there's some way to accomplish everything you want to do, but for the life of Moses, you can't figure out half of them. Or, as in the case of my student, you can't remember what you already know.How to adjust picture resolution for printing falls squarely into that category for many photographers. This hack will solve that problem for you.

 

Your Camera's Resolution

Resolution is expressed in dots per inch (dpi) or pixels per inch (ppi). The higher the ppi, the more densely packed the pixels are, and the higher the resolution. Because of the inherent differences in various media, printing requires higher resolution than computer viewing.

 

Your digital camera is basically a miniature computer that contains a built-in scanner. It scans its images at 72 ppi. That happens to be the same resolution at which most computers display their images. So, going from digital camera to computer is like going from apples to apples. If you were always going to view your pictures solely on a computer, that would be the end of this conversation. But chances are, you want to make prints too. Prints don't look so good at 72 ppi. The ideal printing resolution for photo quality starts at 200 ppi. So how do you get there from here?

 

Working with Image Size

Open your picture in Photoshop and find the Image Size command. In Photoshop Elements, the path is Image Resize Image Size. In Photoshop CS, the path is Image Image Size. You'll notice in the dialog box that Pixel Dimensions is the top section and Document Size is the middle area. Pixel Dimensions shows you the current size of the image at the current resolution. Chances are, the resolution is set to 72 ppi.

 

The Document Size box shows how big a print you can make at the current resolution. As shown in Figure, I can make a 31" 23" print from this four-megapixel picture. Though that's technically true, it wouldn't look very good printed at 72 ppi. That's just not enough resolution.

 

The Image Size dialog box in Photoshop Elements

 

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